Archive for August, 2009

A tandem tour of south-central Oregon.

Monday, August 17th, 2009

Scenic of Baikal

Lake Baikal and Crater Lake have many things in common. Baikal is the deepest lake in the world, while Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States.  Both have been regarded as sacred sties, and are renowned for their beauty and breathtakingly cold water.  But while our trip to circumnavigate Lake Baikal on bicycle is a committing winter endeavor and still months away, a trip to ride around Crater Lake is a pleasant summer vacation that will only take us 9 days.  While our final goal is to ride around Crater Lake, we have planned our trip to include many of the hidden treasures and curious sights in south-central Oregon such as McKenzie Pass, Lava River Cave, and Hole in the Ground.

The starting point of the trip is Eugene, Oregon. From here we will ride to Oakridge and head north to highway 242 via the acclaimed Aufderheide memorial drive. This road travels first along the South Fork of the McKenzie River, then along the North Fork of the Willamette River, and finally through Box Canyon. We will ride over the red covered bridge in Westfir, the longest covered bridge in Oregon, built in 1945. Once we reach highway 242 we will ascend to the summit of McKenzie Pass.

At the summit of McKenzie pass we will visit the Dee Wright Observatory – an open shelter in the midst of a large lava flow. It is constructed entirely from rough black lava stones. If we are lucky we will be able to enjoy a view of many of the mountains in the area.  After the heights of McKenzie Pass we will descend, down, down, down, until we have reached a place deep in the earth called Hole in the Ground.

USA LAKEThis “hole”, located near La Pine, OR, is actually a large explosion crater, or “maar”. It is approximately one mile across and its floor is about 490 feet below the surrounding ground level.  In pictures it looks more like a moon crater or a giant pimple than a hole, but perhaps it will be more impressive when witnessed firsthand.  After the Hole we will continue our subterranean exploration at our stop at Lava River Cave near the town of Bend.  The Cave is a lava tube of 5210 feet in length which was formed approximately 80,000 years ago

Many towns we will be passing that were established in the 19th century were previously inhabited by Native American tribes. Many of the peaceful forests and fields surrounding these towns witnessed some of the last fighting between Native Americans and European settlers in the Pacific Northwest.  One of the most famous of these sites is Fort Klamath, where the Modoc, Klamath, and Northern Paiute tribes fought to retain autonomy over their lands.  These were the last battles to occur in California and Oregon.  One of the interesting things about the Pacific Northwest is that much of its history is told outside of museums and the hustle and bustle of the bigger cities.  One of Oregon’s richest historical museums is its nature. Even the trees here are over 200 years old and stand as monuments of a dramatic past.

Along our way we will also enjoy the simple pleasures of eating wild huckleberries and blackberries on the side of the road.  One of the best things about travelling by bicycle is that your focus is not so much on reaching your goal, but having fun on your way to it.  The goal simply functions as a good reason to get out of the house and make a go of it – the hardest part being just getting out the door.  With so many fascinating aspects of our world to explore, why not throw a pair of panniers on a bike and set out?

Enjoy your summer!

Chris

Sometimes, all the planning in the world can’t stop Mother Nature

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009

Continental Divide

The smoke was so thick in Whitehorse last weekend that you couldn’t see the mountains. Dawson wasn’t much better. In fact, there are 32 forest fires burning right now…the result of a long dry hot summer….and there are countless more fires in Alaska too.

Consequently, it made for very tough riding. I had to stop every half hour just to catch my breath. It was like riding with a cigarette in my mouth. As Joel Plaskett would say, “smoke so thick you need a lighthouse”. The first day I hit the wall at only 44k. The second wasn’t much better. By the third day, I knew I was in trouble. My throat hurt, nose wouldn’t stop running and my lungs felt heavy like a brick.

In planning for this trip, I thought I had considered everything….good tires, good bike, raingear etc… But I never even considered forest fires. I talked to a group of tourists coming from Inuvik and they said there was smoke all the way to Fort MacPherson. There was also a new fire burning north of Eagle Plains on the Bell River.
Smoke so thick you need a lighthouse
So by the three day mark and at the rate I was going, I realized that I wasn’t going to make Eagle Plains before my food ran out. I even thought about hitching a ride but the traffic was light and mostly tourist campers. So I had to come up with a plan B. The trip then turned into a ride out and a ride back….less than what I wanted but the only reasonable compromise. This also allowed me the opportunity to explore a few sites along the way.

There were some highlights….hiking in the Tombstones, swimming in the north Klondike River, sharing coffee in the clouds at the Continental Divide with fellow rider Mary England (with younger lungs and more time, she was heading to Inuvik) and eating handful of small but sweet blueberries. I got to spend 7 days unsupported on my bicycle. I climbed 3000 feet to the Continental divide and enjoyed the long ride back down. Met a few cool folks along the way too.

I am disappointed after all that planning but Plan B was a whole lot of fun too.

Also, a trip to Dawson….nothing is better than Dawson City in the summer.

A humbling experience all the same. A little disappointed but sometimes, even with the best planning, we need to be adaptable.

As my friend from Idaho says….time to throw your disappointment in the ditch and celebrate your achievements. I also was able to raise $2500 for Cancer Research, build awareness for Cameron Helps and the Three Rivers Project. So…turning 50 has been pretty darn good! Wait ’till you see what I will come up with for the 60th!

It rained yesterday for the first time in three weeks. The skies are clear blue today…go figure.

Cheers

David Raithby

Motivation and Promotion: The Baikal Cause

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

Another factor that has motivated me to plan this trip is my desire to promote and contribute to the efforts of a small but dedicated group of local environmentalists – the non-profit organization Great Baikal Trail (GBT), located in Irkutsk, Russia.  GBT is working to preserve Lake Baikal and promote environmental conservation in the region through the construction of the first recreational trail system in Russia.  Over 540 kilometers of trail have been built so far during summer trail-building projects that involve members of the local communities as well as volunteers from all over the world.  You can find out more about GBT and how to volunteer for a summer trail-building project here -  http://www.greatbaikaltrail.org/index_en.html

We will be promoting this expedition through various mediums.  The most notable will be a medium-length film produced by Venezuelan team member Federico Pisani.  Federico is an experienced photographer and film maker who has won awards and international recognition for his work.  His last film, “La Ventana”, a documentary of a climb of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, was featured in the official selection of Banff Film Festival World Tour and won Prize for Best Photography at the Festival Ascenso in Venezuela in 2007.  Our hope is that the film will acquaint audiences with the unique beauty and ecological significance of Lake Baikal as well as with the preservation efforts in the region in order to engender interest and encourage international cooperation in dealing with issues of environmental conservation on a global level.

We will also be organizing a number of slide-show presentations in Oregon and Washington.  These presentations will be an opportunity for us to publicize our trip, promote our sponsors, and increase awareness of Lake Baikal and the current conservation efforts in the region.  In addition, we hope to contribute articles to leading adventure journals upon completion of the trip.  Two members of the team have published articles in American Alpine Journal, and there is strong interest within the team to publish.  Finally, we will be maintaining a website which will feature reports from the field, route descriptions, pictures, and links to sponsors’ web pages.  The website, a work in progress, can be found here – http://www.cyclebaikal.com/


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