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Braking 101: Choosing the right brakes

Monday, January 24th, 2011

It’s a question that gets asked a lot, and as always there is a lot of opinion on the subject: Are you better off with rim brakes or disc brakes? If you are a consumer looking to make a purchase it of little use to use vagaries and opinion to form your decision, only later to find out you made the wrong decision. But because opinions run rampant you are sure to run into a few along the way of gaining brake enlightenment. I’ll give you the information, pros and cons peppered with a bit of my bias and experience and then let you make up your own mind.

Rims – Yes, they do the job.

Rim brakes have been around for a while and have always kind-of-sort-of got the job done in some shape or form. In all honesty they do a pretty good job of stopping you when you need, not to mention they often make a nice squealing noise to warn pedestrians of you impending approach. Though discs have taken a large share of the market rim brakes still rule the roost when it comes to road, cyclocross, BMX, some commuter bikes and city bikes and lower end mountain bikes.

There are basically three types of rim brakes that made it through the shake-down of the late 90’s when disc’s started to gain popularity. The only style of brake that is used on road bikes, Caliper style brakes have been around for a long time. Technology and materials has continued to evolve and has allowed manufacturers to develop incredibly light brakes that offer great stopping power. The sky is the limit when it comes to price, with a pair of Shimano’s high-end caliper’s costing around $600 and specialty brands can be even more expensive. Despite their geriatric age if you are riding a road bike, these are your brakes.

Cantilever brakes, which many had hoped had been killed off with the abysmal fashions that plagued the late eighties and early nineties continue to be found on cyclocross bikes. They are light, they are difficult to clog up and if you have the patience to set them up they can work very well. If you race cyclocross these are your brakes. And that is all I have to say about that.

Finally, V-brakes which you will find mostly on commuters, city bikes and lower-end mountain bikes are the brakes that came along and pushed cantilevers out of the picture back in the day. Easy to set up, powerful and lightweight and easy to maintain they are great brakes for cruising around town, commuting and light-duty trail riding.

A decent set of rim brakes are lightweight, relatively easy to adjust and offer fairly predictable braking so long as they are properly maintained. In a moderately dry environment rim brakes are great. If you find yourself only riding in the summertime or are what you might call a fair-weather rider then these brakes will work great for most applications.

Where they start to fall down is when the weather turns ugly. As you brake the rubber pads of the rim brake rub off onto the rim, think of the dust an eraser leaves on paper, at the same time some of the rim material is also removed when braking. If you look at a well used set of brake pads will probably notice a nice sheen on them, when this sheen gets wet it can make braking rather unpredictable.

To make matters worse if you are putting some serious miles in wet conditions then the grime and muck from the road will wear down your pads and eventually your rims that much more quickly. When the rim is pitted (you’ll be able to feel a groove) it will reach a point where the whole rim has to be replaced. It can take a while to get to this point but it is one of the big draw backs of rim brakes.

Another drawback is that your wheels need to be true for the brakes to work properly or they may rub and cause uneven braking.

But worry not. Rim brakes are not all bad and there are a lot of times when they are preferable. If you own a road bike or cross bike you will be relegated to Rim brakes. If you like simple, aren’t putting a lot of miles on your bike and are riding in nicer weather most of the time then rim brakes will be great.

DISC’s – For that extra something

Disc brakes give you power, predictability and performance. If you are riding hard off road they are a no brainer. If you are commuting long distances year round then they are awesome, some would say a must – I agree. But not all disc brakes are created equal. Some are bad, the cheap ones are really bad; finicky, unreliable and annoying to set up, if budget is a concern stick to the rim brakes. But for many applications they are better than their rim gripping counterparts.

You have two choices in the disc world: mechanical and hydraulic. Mechanical or cable actuated brakes use a traditional brake cable to engage the brake. If you get a bike with a decent set of mechanical disc brakes then you will enjoy great, predictable braking. Get a brake where you can adjust the pad contact on both sides and you will be set. These brakes are great for commuter bicycles because they are simple, easy to set up and service and work very well in any weather condition.

Hydraulic brakes are activated by fluid either a DOT fluid like your car or mineral oil. One of the problems with hydraulic brakes that use DOT fluid is that the fluid is a little less than pleasant on any material that it comes into contact with so they can be messy to set up and service. But when you need power and long lasting fade free braking then hydraulic discs are the way to go.

The upside to disc brakes is power, reliability and performance. Instead of wearing out an expensive rim you just replace the disc. They are very predictable and for long distance, year round riding and commuting and off-road riding. They can be a little tricky to set up but once they are dialed, they are good to go for a while and if you ever bend your rim, it won’t affect your braking, unless something has gone horribly wrong.

Conclusion

Both types of brakes have their place in the bicycle world; in reality it is your riding style, environment and preference that will help you make your braking decision. I know that here in Vancouver if you are commuting any distance than disc brakes are considered by many to be essential where back east they are less of a requisite.

Commuting Med – Long Distances

The gist of it is that if you are commuting long distances in adverse weather or year round, aren’t bothered by a slightly heavier brake system and want predictable, powerful braking then a rim brake is not the best choice for you – you’ll find disc more to your liking , probably mechanical. On the other side of the coin, if you want lightweight, simple brakes that get the job done are you are a more fare-weather rider or your bike only let’s you ride with rim brakes then the decision is easy, go with the rim style of brake.

Commuting Short Distances and City Riding

Rim brakes are probably a good choice for you here. If you aren’t riding often or in adverse weather then rim brakes is a simple choice. They are often inexpensive and will do what you need them to do: stop.

Road and Cyclocross

You really aren’t offered a lot of choice here; rim brakes are you’re only option. However, you will find that some lower to mid end cyclocross bikes make awesome commuters and do actually have disc tabs. If you are going to use it as a commuter then a pair of mechanical discs is ideal. Just remember you can’t race cross with disc brakes.

Mountain

Go disc if you are riding off road with any regularity or if you are riding aggressively. If your mountain bike is for gravel paths on the weekend then rims will do the trick.

There you have it, one long blog post on brakes. When it comes down to it this certainly doesn’t cover everything and you will still encounter a lot of opinion out there when looking at brake choices for your bike. Hopefully, though, this will give you a good start on your way to finding the perfect brake for your riding.

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Curing front derailleur woes: Simple adjustments for blissful shifting

Tuesday, November 9th, 2010

It may just be me but I have never been hugely fond of front derailleur’s, yes I like that they make it easier for me to pedal, but they can be a huge pain in the… well, you know. Often, they are finicky and downright argumentative, resisting adjustments with a stubborn resolve not often witnessed elsewhere. Most of the time (9 out of 10) a quick adjustment to cable tension will coax these little guys into submission and make sure that your bike is shifting with smooth precision.

However, if you start attacking your derailleur with screwdrivers and allen keys, and no knowledge of their function, trying to force it into submission then you may well end up over your head, angry and ready to throw your bicycle off a bridge. If you get to this point, put the screwdriver down, take a deep breath and walk away. When you are ready to look at your bike again swallow your pride and take it to a shop to have someone well versed in the art of wooing derailleur’s help you get back on its good side – there is no shame in doing this, not everyone understands the temperamental nature of front derailleur’s.

Don’t waste your time, ask the hard question: is your derailleur bent?

First thing is first, check to see if your derailleur is obviously bent or damaged; if the answer is yes, then take your bike to your local shop and let a mechanic help you sort it out. I’m sure it happened while you were just riding along (JRA), but don’t tell anyone at the shop that it wasn’t your fault, it grates the nerves of shop staff like you wouldn’t believe. Because there is always a reason your derailleur was bent: there is no such thing as the immaculate bending of a derailleur.

Getting to the Heart: Taking up the slack… cable

Most of the time your front derailleur will be set up properly at the shop you bought it from and the only thing you will have to worry about is cable stretch. Just like a guitar string bicycle cables are wound and during the first few hours of use will stretch making your shifting go a little wonky. For your front derailleur wonky could mean that your derailleur starts rubbing on your chain or maybe your chain will be more resistant to the coaxing of your front derailleur as it guides your chain into larger rings.

This little quibble with your front derailleur is easy to remedy because the people that made your bicycle also included a tool free adjustment in the form of a barrel adjuster (images below) to fix problems that arise from cable stretch. There are three places where you might find this simple adjustment: on the shifter itself, on the cable casing or on the cable guide on your downtube. If your derailleur is slow to move up into a bigger ring then turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise in small increments until it feels just right. If you go too far then practice the opposite, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until your shifting feels good..

Two Notes on cable tension adjustments (Read before adjusting)

If the front derailleur has too much slack and you are maxing out the barrel adjuster adjustment, you can take up excess cable slack by adjusting the cable tension at the cable clamp of the derailleur. With a hand and often dandy 5mm allen key in hand you can get things dialed. Make sure to wind in you barrel adjuster ¾ of the way so that you have some leeway for micro adjustments after you have adjusted the cable slack at the clamp level.

Cable tension can also be used to adjust the derailleur/chain clearance. If you are running three rings the cable tension can be used to adjust derailleur clearance in the middle ring. If the chain rubs when you drop into smaller cogs on the back increase the tension (turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise) a little bit at a time until it no longer rubs in the small ring in the back. Double check to make sure that the front derailleur still pushes your chain into the smaller ring up front

Know your limit(s): adjust within it.

Your Front derailleur is been adorned with two limit screw marked L (Low) and H (High) these two little screws control how far your chain can travel to either limit of your derailleur. The “High” controls the big ring: if it is too open then the chain will move past the big ring and fall off, wrapping itself like a snake around your pedal and crank arm – embarrassing. The “Low” controls the littlest ring and just like the Littlest Hobo if you leave it too open when you go to shift down it will run off the ring towards the frame sometimes getting stuck between the crank and the bicycle frame, which isn’t cool like the Littlest Hobo.

Bad simile’s aside if the cable tension is good and the chain leaps off of the big ring with vigor then you need to close the high limit screw. With a small Philips head screwdriver turn the limit screw clockwise a little bit at a time and then double check to make sure your chain is now in check. If the chain won’t make the jump to a larger ring with enthusiasm then you will need to open the limit by turning the limit screw counterclockwise until the derailleur coaxes the chain onto the correct ring.  Double check your work and now revel in your mechanical excellence – job well done.

For the little ring the adjustments are the opposite. If cable tension is set up correctly but your chain won’t go down into the little ring, you can open the low limit by turning the low limit screw counterclockwise. If the chain is going too far, close the limit by turning the screw clockwise until it is just right. Again take time to revel on the marvelous adjustment you have just made.

Well, that is the simple explanation on front derailleur adjustment. I have by no means covered everything that can go wrong nor the absolute all in the tricks and tips of keeping it running smooth. If you have any question or would like more information leave a comment and I will do my best to help you out. That goes for any bicycle maintenance questions. Throw them our way and we’ll try and help you get them dialed.

There are many variables and more way to solve problems with this delightfully frustrating piece of equipment but I would have to write a small novel to get through them all. Suffice to say, if at any point you feel like you are sinking the derailleur adjustment boat and find yourself considering throwing your bike out a window in frustration, cut your losses, swallow your pride and go and see your local shop, they can help you out of the muck. But if you have the patience, check out the derailleur guides below, take your time and you will be rewarded with awesome shifting, hopefully. Now go and ride.

Shimano: Installing a front derailleur:

SRAM Derailleur Adjustments:

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Demystifying the mystery of the rear derailleur: simple deraileur adjustments

Thursday, September 23rd, 2010

It is possible that derailleur’s are one of the most misunderstood, misadjusted and misused pieces of equipment on a bicycle. When I used to work in a shop I couldn’t count the number of times someone would come in with a horribly maladjusted derailleur because they had tried to fix it themselves. Usually it was a simple fix, which was made into a more complex fix from their fiddling. With puppy dog eyes they would look up at me trying to avoid eye contact and tell me they had messed it all up, or they would try and deny anything had gone wrong – JRA.

When a derailleur goes out of adjustment, most of the time (80-90%) it is a simple fix; it is usually a matter of adjusting the cable tension. The rest of the time assessing the problem can be difficult, check out this document from Shimano on the 100 possible causes of bad shifting. This guide will stick to the simple stuff, mostly to avoid any finger pointing if your adjusting escapades go awry and because I want to avoid this turning into a small novel. And really, if it is anything more than a simple fix, it is probably a good idea to take it to your shop.

Is it Bent?

First things first: Check to see if your derailleur bent. There is no point spending the time fiddling around with your derailleur, trying to tune it, if it or the derailleur hanger is bent. A bent or broken derailleur will never shift properly. Have a look at your rear derailleur from behind your bicycle , it should hang down straight from your rear dropout; if it is tilted to either side; something is bent and your best bet is to take it to your local shop.

Get to know your Derailleur

Make friends with that little gizmo on the back of your bicycle, a good relationship with your derailleur can be rewarding and fun. That was a lie; they are often frustrating like a Rubik’s cube or relationships. But enough contrived similes. There are three main adjustments you can make to most rear derailleurs: B-Tension with the B-Tension adjustment screw, cable tension using the barrel adjuster at the back of the derailleur and or one on the shifter, and limits using the high and low limit screws (usually marked with an L and an H at the back or side of the derailleur).  Before you adjust anything, though, start off by figuring out what is wrong.

Most of the time, almost all of the time if it was adjusted properly from the start, it is just a simple matter of changing the cable tension.  Do this properly and you will find yourself with a properly adjusted derailleur.  How can you tell? (Click on the pictures below to view a close up of derailleur’s and barrel adjusters

Not shifting into a higher or lower gear quickly and smoothly with each click: Cable Tension

Most of the time derailleur’s are properly adjusted at the shop and only need small adjustments to compensate for cable stretch (especially on new bicycles). Cable stretch is normal on new bicycles or anytime you install a new shifting cable, the cables are wound and stretch during the first few rides. 9 out of 10 times this is the culprit of your shifting woes.

Too little tension: most often the problem

On a normal pull rear derailleur (which if you are reading this I am guessing you have); if you go to shift into a larger ring on the back and the derailleur is disobedient then you need to add tension to the cable. You can do this by twisting a barrel adjuster counter clockwise. Don’t get too excited, and go turning the adjuster all willy-nilly, try a quarter turn first and see if that improves the shifting, if not try another quarter turn and continue until the chain eagerly jumps up to the larger cog. If you go too far you will notice that the derailleur no longer shifts down to a smaller ring proper.  Don’t worry; it’s not a big deal. To remedy this just turn the barrel adjuster the opposite way in small increments. Once you’re shifting is smooth, stop playing with your derailleur and go riding. Resist the urge to do anything else.

Too much tension

If you go to shift to a small (more difficult gear) and nothing happens or your chain starts jumping around like a Mexican jumping bean then your cable probably has too much tension. Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until the chain moves quickly and smoothly up and down and voila!

Limit Screws: Where things get interesting

The limit screws adjust the two limits of the derailleur: the high limit (littlest cog) and the low limit (biggest cog) consequently there are two screws for this task usually marked with an L and H respectively.  The simple explanation is that the upper pulley wheel should align with the largest and smallest cogs and no further. Usually this is set by your friendly neighborhood dealer and is not something you should worry about or adjust yourself, as  it can cause quite a mess. Usually if the chain is not shifting or is over shifting in your biggest and littlest cogs then something has been bent. However, if they are out of adjustment here is how to fix it.

Too open and the chain comes off

If the L limit is too open when you go to shift into your big ring you will quickly hear a large amount of metal on metal unpleasantness as your chain hops off your cassette into your spokes, often making quite a mess of things back there. If your H is too open then the chain can come off and wedge itself between the dropout and your cassette or may just continue to jump off the small cog.

To fix this you’ll need a small Phillips or flat head screwdriver. Shift into either the lowest or highest gear on your rear cassette and adjust the L or H screw by turning them clockwise until the upper pulley wheel aligns with that cog.

Too closed and you’ll never reach the limits

If your chain won’t shift up into the largest cog or down into the smallest cog and nothing is bent and your cable tension is correct then you will need to open the limits. Using either your small Phillips or flat head screwdriver, open the limit by turning the screw counter clock wise, work in small increments until you can get the chain into the correct gear.  Once your chain is cooperating, adjust the limit so that top pulley aligns with the cog. Now you can go riding.

The B-Tension

The B- tension screw is something I am going to leave out. In essence this adjustment screw ensures that the derailleur’s upper pulley wheel is the correct distance from the teeth on your cassette to ensure proper shifting. If you are feeling mechanically brawny I have included links to instructions from both SRAM and SHIMANO where you will find the answers you are looking for on this adjustment.

Now you are ready to make sure your derailleur is running perfectly. I’ve probably already said too much about rear derailleur adjustment, or maybe just enough to get you in trouble, use patience when you are making these adjustments, derailleur’s can be frustrating. But with a little know-how and some patience, you should be able to get yourself dialed. If for any reason you feel like you are getting in over your head, visit your local dealer and the will get things sorted for you.

If you want the full technical breakdown from Shimano, here is their technical PDF for MTB derailleurs. PDF for Road deraileurs.

Or the technical documents for SRAM Derailleurs in PDF

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Panniers 101: Purchasing the Perfect Pannier

Friday, March 5th, 2010

The noble pannier can be either friend or foe. On the one hand a good, well made pannier can make carrying your gear around much easier, while a bad one can cause all types of headaches. Panniers, which most people would simply call bags that attach to racks on your bicycle, were probably so named to avoid such a long winded explanation, have been around for quite a while. Since the dawn of the two-wheeled transportation thingy we call a bicycle people have needed ways to carry their stuff. And so the famed pannier came to the rescue.  But how do you know which of these fantastic creations are the best for your needs?

The Where, When Conundrum?

Where are you going to ride and when? Let me elaborate, when you are looking at pannier bags you should try and set a realistic idea of  where and when you will be riding or aspire to be riding. Are you going to restrict your pannier usage to fair weather days, only exposing yourself to poor weather when you have no choice?  Maybe you will be riding to work and back 20 kilometers each way no matter what that wily Mother Nature throws your way. Or are you a touring addict, taking to the road for weeks on end each year?

Answering this question will influence your pannier decision in more ways than one. If you ride to work every day you will want something that is waterproof and durable and that can maybe hold your laptop a change of clothes and some food so you don’t need a monstrous touring size bag.  If you have a short commute to work and only plan on ridding in nice weather, wear your work clothes on the ride and only need to carry a laptop and some food then a slim purpose built pannier will fit your needs.

You probably get the point; answering this question will make sure you get a bag that will fit your needs and doesn’t under deliver on your expectations. If you have questions then you can always swing by your local dealer for help or advice on the right bags for your needs, or leave a comment on the blog.

But what should you look for when you get to the dealer?  There are four main things you should consider when buying panniers bags: fabric(s), construction, size and attachment system.

Constructions and Fabrics

All bags are not created equally. It seems obvious I know but you really do get what you pay for, though, not everyone needs the top of the line.  Most pannier bags are made from either Nylon or Polyester fabrics and often feature a denier or Tex number, which refers to the linear mass density of the fabrics, the details of which are beyond the realm of this discussion – just know that as the numbers rise so does the quality, durability and the price. You may also see the name Cordura which is actually a brand name fabric, much like Gore-Tex is to waterproof membranes.

Most of the panniers use coated fabrics making the fabric itself essentially waterproof but the construction or how the seams are joined and the zippers can be the Achilles heel of dry gear. There are three main ways to join fabric: Sewing, hot welding and Ultrasonic Welding.

Sewing is the old school method you learned in home-ec but better; however, this still leaves you with a bunch little holes – perfect for letting water in. Hot welding involves overlaying two fabrics and joining them with heat, creating a seal and is often found on dry bags and higher end water proof bags. The final and most technical and expensive, not to mention coolest sounding is Ultrasonic Welding to join the materials using sound. But when looking to keep water out there is more.

Going that extra mile, top end panniers will feature taped seams and waterproof zippers which will ensure your gear stays dry. Many mid end bags come with covers, but if you are concerned about staying dry drop the extra coin for the Gucci gear: it will last longer and make sure your stuff stays dry.

Attachment Systems

There are many systems out there and even more opinions on which are the best.  The most widely accepted systems come from a company named Rixen Kaul, which effectively combine ease of use with durability. Many companies have their own proprietary attachment systems or use a combination; Axiom uses their Posi-Lock system on most bags and started using the Rixen Kaul on the top end gear for 2010. When looking at attachment systems it is always a bonus if the pieces are replaceable, just in case you run into a problem like a broken clip. When looking for panniers go to your local shop and try out a few bags to see which best suit your rack.

Size Matters

I’m sorry for the overused cliché, but it seems apt for this situation.  If you aren’t going to be carrying a lot of stuff then buy a smaller pannier. Extra size will leave you with awkward and cumbersome bags and a lot of empty space.  Go back to the Where, When conundrum and use your answers to gauge how much space you need.

If you made it this far you have read over 800 words on bicycle panniers.  Wow.  I know there is more to cover but  I don’t know how much longer you want to read about panniers. If you want to know more leave a comment and I will dive deeper into the pannier void. The next step is to go out and find your perfect pannier, get on your bicycle and go for a ride.

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How to Dress for Winter Riding

Thursday, January 7th, 2010

It’s a new year and as many parts of the world are being gripped by the worst winter conditions in decades it seems like a slim chance that many of us will get out on our bicycles anytime soon. But trying to view the glass as half full I thought I would bring a quick and optimistic guide on how to dress for cold weather on your bicycle. You never know, you might get out for a ride sooner than you think. Here are some things to think about when you are getting ready to ride.

Three layers are better than one

Let’s talk upper body first.  Most recommendations will have you looking for three layers – base layer, middle or insulating layer and outer layer- to protect you from the elements.  Layering will get moisture away from your skin and let you keep the warmth that cool air tries to pillage. And when you get into your ride, if you find that clothing decisions trended towards the warm side, it’s easy to lose a layer.  Here’s what to look for when planning your layers.

Base Layer:

Said layer has two goals: the first is to provide warmth. The second is to get any moisture you produce away from your skin so you can keep your valuable warmth.  Base layers come in different thicknesses and materials offering you a lot of choice. Wool is an exceptional material and will keep you both warm and dry but comes at a premium. There are also synthetic materials, mainly polyester based, that will get the job done. Thin base layers are usually best but if you tend to get cold easily opt for a thicker start.

Middle Layer:

The middle layer helps moisture continue its travels away from your body while providing vital insulation. You can vary the thickness of your mid-layer to fine tune your warmth depending on the weather. When looking for a mid layer, though it’s not a necessity, try finding cycling specific garments, they will offer you an unrestricted fit and good coverage when you are in a cycling position. You may also find that during a ride you no longer need your third layer so having a mid layer you can wear on its own, such as a softshell that offers some protection from the elements, is a great idea.

Outer Layer:

Your first defense against the elements and the last barrier for escaping moisture the outer layer is arguably the most important and certainly the most technical. Shells work best in the layer system. Look for jackets that are waterproof, breathable and have taped seams and you’ll have a shell that you can wear for all weather riding. There are some amazing jackets available that are lightweight and packable while offering all the features you need to accommodate riding in a variety of conditions. To learn more about the outer layers click here to read an older post that explains it all.

Keeping Warm Down Below

While you are cycling your legs will most likely be doing the majority of the work so depending on the temperature wearing windproof thermal tights may be all you need to keep them warm during winter riding. If the weather gets wet you can layer up with a waterproof, breathable shell over your tights. Other clothing pieces to consider are leg warmers which were covered in an earlier post (click here to read), and can be combined to keep you toasty.

Hands, Feet and Your Cranium

Feet

If you are going to go hard core and ride every chance you get during the dark winter months then you can get winter specific shoes. If this solution doesn’t fit your budget or just seems excessive then shoe covers will be your best friend. For winter get yourself thermal shoe covers that are waterproof and windproof.

Hands

Winter cycling gloves will provide you with good grip, padded palms and reflective highlights to make sure you are warm, comfortable and safe. If you get cold easily you can find lobster style gloves that keep your index and middle fingers free to operate the controls while keeping your fingers extra warm. Stray away from mittens as they will restrict your mobility in a dangerous way.

Head

For performance the best options are often thin thermal beanies or head bands and a neck warmer or balaclava. If warmth is your primary concern then you can add a helmet cover to keep the wind out. With helmets being built mainly for warmer weather and your head ditching a lot of your heat, making sure you have the right head coverage can make a big difference on how comfortable you are in winter temperatures.

We know that winter makes for an easy excuse to stay off your bicycle, but with a little bit of planning and the right clothes winter doesn’t have to keep you inside.  Stick it to winter and get out there for a ride.

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How to dress for a winter photo shoot:Bring Warm Clothes

Friday, December 11th, 2009

One thing all year round cyclists wrestle with is how to dress for the less than ideal weather winter brings. How many layers do you need, should you wear a soft-shell or not or maybe how warm will leg warmers keep my legs? The true answer depends on the rider. But what if you needed to get some pictures of cold weather commuting? Well, I think we just found out, possibly at the detriment to some of our bodily appendages.

WinterRide1

A few days ago, our product designer rolled by my cubicle and told me he needed some cold weather commuting pics for an upcoming catalog. The weather looked like it would be sunny and cold for the next week so we started putting it together for Tuesday morning. The goal was to get frosty looking pictures that just looked cold, pictures that made you shiver when you saw them. What better place than down by a river we thought. The cold air wicking moisture off the river would coat the sides in a dense frost.

Plans were put in motion. We pulled two staff members as models (Jon the Norco team coordinator and Roy our product developer) got some gear together and arranged to meet our photographer down by a river at 7 am.  Many a Chris Farley, SNL joke was then thrown around about living in a van down by the river eating government cheese.  Once a few, rather poor, imitations were out of the way we loaded up the vehicles for the next day and went home.

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The next morning my alarm went off at 5:30 am and I was reluctant to pull away from the warm grasp my bed held on me. Dragging myself out of its clutches I readied myself not realizing how cold it was outside. When I awkwardly stumbled out of my door with two full back packs, I was punched square in the face by the chilling morning air. I ran across the street and hopped into Jon’s warm truck and we headed off. Luckily Jon brought the lifeblood of the cycling world, coffee and so we enjoyed a caffeine laden ride to the river.  When we arrived at the parking lot the temperature was nicely below freezing, frigid some would say, but we unloaded our bikes turned on the lights and pedaled along the dark gravel trails to get in place to capture the early morning light.

09.Andy.AxiomWinter024

As we pedaled along everyone took turns remarking on just how cold we all felt. Roy, who had pedaled 30km (19 miles) to meet us that morning, had been fine on the ride but was quickly cooling off now that we were cruising along the river banks. Jon and I, who had been in a warm truck drinking hot coffee, only a few moments earlier felt the cold right away. For the next three hours it would only get worse, to the point where Jon’ legs went into spasms when we got back to the truck, fun. But we got the shots and we probably learned a few things along the way.

Here are some things to keep in mind when dressing for a ride. We were all too cold to be standing around trying to get pictures but if we had been riding, which is the real worry for most people, we would have been fine. Here is what we know:

First: I stand by the fact that shoe covers are awesome, I love them and I’m not afraid to admit it. Second: Wear layers; start with a base layer, then a warmer mid layer and then something to cut the wind, for dry days soft shells are great, they are warm windproof and comfortable. If you want to read more on outerwear follow this link to an earlier article on dressing for bad weather. Third: Thin beanies that will fit under your helmet make a big difference and still look okay. Fourth: arm and leg warmers are also as awesome as shoe covers, I wrote about them in an earlier post. Finally: if you are going on a photo shoot in winter, I know the chances are slim but I thought I would add this anyway, bring a lot of warm clothing; down is awesome and packable and you’ll be happier than the people who didn’t.

I thought I would close this post with a few of the pictures we got.

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Arm and Leg Warmers 101.5: Enjoy the Warmth

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

Last May during Bike to Work Week, I decided it was time to suit up and take on the 64km (40 mile) round trip commute to work and back on my trusty bicycle, which was brand new so I was only assuming it was trusty. And though my bike did turn out to be trusty my clothing choices left something to be desired.  The first morning would teach what it meant to be woefully underprepared on a ride.

My alarm woke me up just after 5am, I reluctantly crawled out from under my warm covers, shoveled back a quick breakfast and hit the road.   It was cold, damn cold and wet too. When the mountains came into view I could see a blanket of fresh snow, like the sugar coating on Mini-Wheats that extended half way down the mountain side.That’s okay I was starting to warm up, or at least parts of me were. Others were getting cold quickly; namely my legs, feet and arms. Just over an hour later I rolled up to work feeling dangerously close to a human Popsicle; It took two hours for my toes to stop burning as they thawed. Deciding I didn’t want to go through that again I purchased knee and arm warmers and a set of shoe covers. On my next ride I was like Goldilocks, before the three bears came home and ruined the party,  just right.  It was the warmers that made the difference.

Before I learned the hard way I had never seen the virtue of warmers and covers but afterwards they became a must have and something I recommend to every rider. There are a lot of options out there, and of course it depends on when and where you are going to be riding.  But here are some of the basics when it comes to covers and warmers.

Shoe covers will keep you and your feet happy and comfortable and come in a variety of materials, heights, closures etc… If you are only worried about your toes then you can get toe covers that just cover the front of your shoes. If you are going to ride in wet cold weather then look for something that is waterproof and windproof, yes, I know this is obvious but I’m sure somebody would still ask. Look for covers with waterproof membranes or coated fabrics. Trust me shoe covers, booties or whatever you want to call them will make your rides much more comfortable.

Leg warmers are, awesome. Enough said! Okay I can say a bit more. They are great for riding and can serve double duty for running as well. You can buy either full leg warmers or knee warmers (which actually cover a good deal of your legs). Warmers are great for almost any cooler to cold weather ride and can be layered under your pants or tights to keep you toasty.  Arm warmers are similar to leg warmers except for the obvious: they go on your arms. Warmers are easy to remove, making them ideal for layering and are relatively small making it a simple decision to pack them with you. If you are planning on riding year round or even in the cooler shoulder months warmers are key.

Many of the daily bicycle commuters here at work swear by warmers and shoe covers, making them the first suggestion to me when I was imitating an ice cube during my long commute last May.  Now that warmers are a part of my life I can’t imagine a cold weather ride without them. If you haven’t tried warmers yet then next time you stop by your local bicycle shop grab a pair and try them out. They are an inexpensive way to add excellent warmth to your rides.

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Outerwear 101: Enjoying Wet Weather Commuting

Monday, October 19th, 2009

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A few weeks ago our calendars rolled over September 21st, marking the first day of Fall, the official end to summer and the beginning of cold dark months here in the Pacific North-West. That’s sounds too gloomy, sure we’ll still see sunshine, once in a while the clouds will break and we will forget all about the rainy days as we flock outside to enjoy a small window of good weather, I’ve heard these windows called ‘sucker holes’.

Okay, I don’t want to depress people; I heard a great saying the other day that went like this:  “when it comes to riding year round, there is no bad weather just bad clothing choice.” My wife would adamantly disagree, but having the right wet weather clothing can make the difference between a nice morning ride and dropping a barrage of f-bombs as you curse your way through morning traffic. When it comes to protecting yourself from the elements you could wrap yourself in a series of strategically duct-taped garbage bags, but you won’t be happy and people will make fun of you.

The answer to wet weather woes lies in bicycle specific clothing. A month ago I wrote a post that gave a broad overview of what you need to ride year round. Here I’ll look at the down and dirty of the right clothing for riding comfortably in the rain. This one will concentrate mainly on Jackets with some cross over into pants and other clothing. I’ll cover the other gear soon.

Why Should You Buy Cycling Specific Clothing?

You may be wondering why should invest in cycling specific clothing. First off, cycling clothing is fit to be most comfortable when you are in a riding position; when your arms are forward the sleeves won’t ride up to your elbows and the back of your jacket will keep water from running down your pants – a very uncomfortable and disconcerting feeling I can assure you. The pants are fitted to ensure mobility while you are pedaling and to avoid the cuff getting snagged in your chain. The gloves offer extra padding for your palms and the shoe covers will still allow for proper pedal contact while keeping your feet cozy and dry. Carefully selected materials and construction gives you highly breathable fabrics in a variety of weights so you don’t end up with a sauna inside your clothing. Finally, strategically placed reflective material will help motorists see you in low light, ensuring you don’t become a sopping wet hood ornament, bonus!

What is Waterproof and Breathable?

If you’ve been researching clothing already you may notice that some of the jackets and pants have a mm rating for the fabric. I have discovered that almost no one knows what this means so I will try and demystify this rating. The mm rating comes from a water column test where they place a column of water on a piece of the fabric and then fill the column until the water permeates the fabric, they record the mm of water at the point that this happens. This information may be as abstract as I can imagine; I certainly have no idea what 20,000mm of water looks like, though I imaging it’s a lot. To put in perspective I once heard a great analogy that a monsoon is equivalent to about 7,000 mm. If your clothes are above monsoon rating than you are probably okay, that is unless you are caught in a super monsoon.

However, what you need to remember is that the mm rating is just for the fabric, it’s tricky I know, but there are still seams and zippers to worry about. If you really want to stay dry look for fully seam sealed garments with waterproof zippers. Your local shop can point you the right way.

Don’t forget breathability, which is usually the other rating you’ll see, once again this is way too abstract to be of much use, so the simple explanation is a higher number is better. Better breathability will stop you from having a steam bath in your own clothing.  There is, however, always a tradeoff between higher breathability and water resistance, one of life’s little conundrums. Take these ratings with a grain of salt, but they do offer some basis for comparison in your purchases.

Where and When Will You Ride?

One thing you need to consider is what type of rider you are or aspire to be. Ask yourself if you are planning to ride to work every day, three times a week or only when it’s sunny, you decide. Next, how far are you going to commute; is it 5km, 10 or longer. Will you be splitting your commute between transit and riding? All of these factors will influence what type of outerwear you will purchase.

To help you along with your decisions here are some clothing choices and their best uses:

The Basic Rain Beater: A simple yet waterproof shell usually made from PVC which means they breathe about as well as saran wrap. They are inexpensive and simple. Great outerwear for short rides or emergency rain wear, but can turn into a sauna if you are riding longer distances. Probably not your first choice for year round riding and definitely not ideal in colder situations; below 10°C (50°F) and they tend to become brittle below freezing.

The Softshell: Windproof and water resistant, these clothes are usually warm and comfortable. On colder wet days they are also a great mid layer underneath a weatherproof, breathable shell. Because of the water resistant rating you’ll be okay in a drizzle or light rain but any more than that may leave you wet. These shells usually sport a high level of breathability and can be a great year round addition to your wardrobe, you may even find yourself wearing them every day.

The Water Repellant Light Jacket: No not the old K-Way hiding in the back of your closet. These jackets are lightweight, breathable and usually water-repellent. Compact and easy to store away these are great for light rain and warmer days, above 10°C (50°F). They give you protection from the elements and can be used on any ride from short too long.

Light Weight Water Proof Shell: Over the last few years outerwear material technologies have grown leaps and bounds, partly due to the expiration of Gore Tex’s waterproof laminate patent, which let other manufacturer’s join the game and push product development, competition is grand. The result is light weight, waterproof and breathable materials that are compact and easy to stow away. These are great for warmer weather rides and are compact enough to bring along even when there is only a slight chance of rain. If you aren’t planning on riding through the wet months or you are a performance rider looking for lightweight protection then this style of clothing is perfect.

The Multi-Ply Water Proof Year Round Shell: I admit that the description is a little on the long side but you probably get the picture. These shells are made of a multi-ply laminate to give you maximum wet weather protection. You may hear 3-ply or 2.5-ply, taped seams and waterproof PVC-coated zippers are combined to keep you dry. Yes, these jackets are more expensive but when the going gets tough they are an awesome thing to have. When it gets colder out, wear a fleece or softshell underneath and you’ll stay warm and dry.

The Verdict

There are a lot of good products out there to make riding year round enjoyable. By doing a little research and figuring out what type of riding you do or aspire to do you will have an easy time getting the right gear to fit your riding style.

I hope that the above has given you an idea of what you need to enjoy riding, no matter what Mother Nature throws your way. If you are prepared, riding year round is easier than you might think  and great way to stay in shape and avoid rush hour anger as you sit in your car watching cyclists pass you by. Keep checking back for more guides on foul weather commuting.

Pedal Forward!

-Cadeyrn

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Here comes the rain: Are you ready?

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009
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Photo: cyclestudios.com

Last night I woke up suddenly.  It sounded as though the heavens were falling. It rained proverbial cats and dogs. I wasn’t sure what was going on at first but the noise certainly woke me up quickly.  And in my sleepy haze it took a few seconds before I realized –it was raining, and hard.  You don’t want to hear it and I can barely admit it to myself but summer is almost over. I’m not trying to be a pessimist, I love winter, but most people fight tooth and nail to hang on to that summer feeling.  But I have a question: Are you ready for the changing seasons?

It seems like only a week ago I was stripping the fenders off my commuter and enjoying my daily ride, basking in the sunshine.  Wow, does time ever fly! I know not everyone had the summer we did here in Vancouver, but I only vaguely remember it raining twice. Not to rain on anyone’s parade but usually we end up reaching a fairly consistent rainfall throughout the year and with fall nipping on our heels it’s almost time to start thinking about… dare I say it? It’s almost time to start thinking about wet and cooler weather riding gear.

Okay, no one wants to admit that summer is coming to an end, but nothing is worse than waking up ready for you commute only to realize that it’s cold and pouring rain outside, and you don’t have the right gear for the ride. But what is the right gear?

I learned a few things last May when I started doing a 64km commute a couple of times a week. The learning spanned a couple of days and the curve was steep; I suffered on those cold, wet days while I was getting the hang of it. But I figure I can help others avoid the mistakes I made with a few tips.

For cooler days remember the key word is ‘warmers.’ Get yourself leg and arm warmers, trust me they work wonders, keeping your knees and elbows warm makes the ride much more comfortable. Shoe covers are a must, sure they may not look super cool, but wow they are necessary – it took an hour for my toes to regain feeling after my first long commute. If you are going to be riding in the rain, even on occasion then get waterproof shoe covers. Finally warm, waterproof gloves and a Thermal Beanie that fits under your helmet will make sure you are stoked to ride even in cooler temps.

Next if you are going to commute in the wet, make sure you have full coverage fenders, they will protect you and your bike from road grime, rocks and debris. You’ll also want to get a waterproof jacket and pants, breathable is best but you can get inexpensive rain gear that will do the trick, especially for shorter commutes.  Make sure that the bags you carry your gear in, whether they are panniers, a messenger bag or a backpack are fully waterproof, showing up with a wet change of clothes can really ruin your morning.  On colder days layer underneath your waterproof gear to make sure you are still warm and dry and you can use fewer layer if its warmer on your ride home. Finally wear sunglasses with lighter tinted lenses; coming down a hill at mock chicken and being blinded by rain can end poorly.

Don’t worry there is still some summer left but it’s good to be ready for when it changes, Mother Nature can be unpredictable at the best of times. The list above is quick and dirty, and meant to get you thinking about the months to come so you are not caught unprepared.  I’m sure I forgot something but I’ll try and provide more updates when summer really bows out to the fall weather.

Keep on riding the good ride.

Cadeyrn

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Touring 101: A Guide to Getting Out There

Monday, July 6th, 2009

There’s a truly unique adventure you may not have thought of that you really should consider. Maybe you have given it a thought but weren’t sure how to make it happen. We thought we’d help by giving you a guide to planning this amazing experience for yourself. Combining the thrill of adventure with the fun of a vacation and the joy of riding your bicycle, once you tour you’ll never go back.

golden-earsImagine re-experiencing entire regions, seeing landscapes like never before and challenging yourself in ways you’ve only imagined. These are just some of the things that bicycle touring has to offer. You can make your tours as easy or as difficult as you like, the decision is yours.

This guide will provide you with all of the necessary information to plan and organize your next trip as a bicycle traveler. Getting into bicycle touring is easier than you think and Axiom can help you reach your dream destination. To keep reading download a PDF of our manual. (PDF Link)

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